[ilovebacon]

I saw that there wasn't any discussion for engine oils. I am almost at 1000km and will be doing my own oil and filter change.

For the oil filter, where I am located, I can only go with KN 204 since it is readily available. What about the oil?

What brand of oil and what weight will you be using? Synthetic, semi-synthetic, or Dino oil? From the MT07 forums, they said not to go full synthetic, what do you think?

Also please give your thoughts as to what type of oil to stay away from and what oil has had the best results in our XSR's.

I am planning on either Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 or the Amsoil MCF 10W-40.

 

[E.J.]

I did my own oil and filter change (albeit at a thousand miles rather than a thousand kilometres, oops! The oil that came out was really clean though, so hopefully it's fine..)

I used Motul 5000 (part-synth, 10W-40) oil, and a HiFlo HF204 filter (same dimensions, I think, as a K&N KN204 and a Champion F308), but mainly 'cause they were cheap rather than because they're particularly good or anything. Not noticed any problems, but I've only done a few hundred miles since the oil change.

Personally I reckon that for something like the XSR, which is neither an old bike with tolerances all over the place, nor a dedicated high-performance track machine with ultra-tight tolerances, there's very little to be gained by using really high-grade oil or a K&N oil filter. So long as the filter has the same internal volume as the stock one, and so long as the oil is JASO-rated for a wet clutch, I'm happy!

That being said, o'course, I'm neither a mechanic nor an engineer - and I must admit I do know far more talented spanner-monkeys than I, who literally always use high-grade fully-synth oil, and K&N oil filters..

[On a side-note, I quite like that sump plug on the XSR is forward-facing rather than downward-facing - presumably so's there's no danger of ripping the bolt out when hopping a kerb or on debris in the road or whatever? Not exactly essential or anything, sure, but a nice touch I think!]

 

[ilovebacon]

Haha, oops! Forgot to mention this will be the second oil change, the first one was done at 300km.

I came from a sportbike background (GSXR), so all I know are full syn. But what you said makes sense.

From what I have been reading though, actually it's not the brand of the oil but the frequency at which you change the oil and filter.

How do you feel about the Motul 5000 semi syn in terms of ride and shift?

 

[E.J.]

Yeah, the oil change I did was the second, too; did it because my bike was an ex-demo model, so even though the dealer will have given it it's first oil change pretty early on, I'm guessing it won't exactly have been treated with the utmost mechanical sympathy, by the usual motley crew of weekend test pilots..

It seems fine, in all respects - but then I've not had the bike very long, and if the oil was affecting the transmission (or anything else!) I don't think I'd notice. I reckon you could probably replace the oil with custard and it'd still shift better than the first-generation Moto Guzzi V7 Stone I had directly beforehand..

 

[Tigerjohn]

Semi-synthetic 10W-40 is recommended, so best to stick with that. I use Castrol Power 1 (but not the 'Racing' version as that's fully synthetic).

 

[Artorius]

My last mechanic and the dealer mechanic and other people told me to use Yamalube.
And isn´t the full synth better?

 

[wex700]

While my bike is still under warranty I will only use what Yamaha recommends:

YAMALUBE Fully Synthetic 4-Stroke Engine Oil
-10W40 API SG
-JASO MA

Also with a Yamaha filter.

Using anything else can invalidate the warranty (according to the Yamaha Warranty Handbook)!

I know, I sound cautious, but that's me.

After the warranty period I will consider alternative engine oil and filters, if they are as good as the Yamaha stuff, or better.

 

[ilovebacon]

Yea, I heard about the semi synth vs full synth on our engines. However, I am still not clear which to go with. Can anyone here chime in on that?

 

[Tigerjohn]

To confuse matters further, Yamalube 10W-40 comes in fully synthetic (FS) and semi synthetic (S) variants. They both meet the quality standards specified by Yamaha for the XSR. My dealer used a silkolene semi synthetic 10W-40.... he said it meets Yamaha's requirements for the XSR (and it was no doubt cheaper!). The XSR engine is not the highest revving or over stressed. A good quality semi synthetic is fine. But if you want the added reassurance of a fully synthetic oil (and the often debated clutch slip!), then fine again. It's not clear in my owner's handbook as to which of the 10W-40 Yamalubes (FS or S) is recommended.

So, buy a good quality 10W-40 m/cycle oil.... synthetic or semi synthetic will do nicely!

 

[Maturecheese]

To confuse matters further, Yamalube 10W-40 comes in fully synthetic (FS) and semi synthetic (S) variants. They both meet the quality standards specified by Yamaha for the XSR. My dealer used a silkolene semi synthetic 10W-40.... he said it meets Yamaha's requirements for the XSR (and it was no doubt cheaper!). The XSR engine is not the highest revving or over stressed. A good quality semi synthetic is fine. But if you want the added reassurance of a fully synthetic oil (and the often debated clutch slip!), then fine again. It's not clear in my owner's handbook as to which of the 10W-40 Yamalubes (FS or S) is recommended.

So, buy a good quality 10W-40 m/cycle oil.... synthetic or semi synthetic will do nicely!

Is not the clutch a dry clutch and I take that to mean it is not within the oil bearing crankcase/gearhousing?

 

[hombacher]

No, wet...


...even the budget Ducatis have meanwhile.

 

[Maturecheese]

No, wet...


...even the budget Ducatis have meanwhile.

You are quite right I don't know why I had the idea it might be a dry clutch. I was reading through the oil posts as I am taking the bike to the dealer tomorrow to have them check out the 'clunky gearbox', engaging first and second feels a bit like hitting the bike with a hammer although I'm sure they are gonna say 'they're all like that'. It's just mine gets even worse when it's done a longish run (over an hour and then I get the between gears nonsense when coming to a stop without shifting down in sequence before stopping, not always possible as you all will be aware) and the oil is thin so I was thinking about maybe putting a better quality oil in it than the dealer did at the last service approx 900mls ago. Seems though that I can only use Yamalube until the warranty is up in 9 months time. I'm guessing they used Yamalube 10w40 semi so I'm thinking use fully Yamalube 10w40 fully synthetic and see if it improves.

 

[dan1]

Three of these:
Well, 2.7 qts.

Yamalube Full Synthetic Engine Oil | 20% ($2.80) Off! - RevZilla

Uniquely formulated to provide performance and protection on track, trail or street.

www.revzilla.com

One of these:

Yamaha 214-11198-01-00 GASKET - RevZilla

Shop Yamaha GASKET 214-11198-01-00. Genuine Yamaha OEM parts at the best prices here at RevZilla.

www.revzilla.com

One of these:

Yamaha 5GH-13440-60-00 - ELEMENT ASSY, OIL CL | Partzilla.com

Buy Yamaha 5GH-13440-60-00 - ELEMENT ASSY, OIL CL . This OEM part is guaranteed by Yamaha's limited part warranty ✓ FREE Shipping on qualified orders - Partzilla.com

www.partzilla.com

 

[Maturecheese]

Well the guy in the dealership today said that fully synthetic degrades due to heat quicker than semi synthetic when I suggested putting fully synthetic in my bike. I find that a bit hard to believe. I retorted that they use it in racing machines but he then said that they change the oil regularly. Hard to know whether it;s salesman BS or the truth with these people. Anyway the mechanic went for a ride on my bike and stated it was fine but I had adjusted the clutch up too much and this would damage it by heating it up too much as there wasn't enough play in the clutch lever. Anyway the bike is coming off the road for the winter soon as I have no wish to ride it on our salted roads. Gonna be a looong winter

 

[Pursuvant]

Used straight up SAE dino blood no additives, so cheap I changed every 200mi for first 3 changes (same filter), because I'm not getting married, just breaking in a motor. Then Rotella T6. The key here being 3K between changes.

And my tractors I use kn washable air filters because they have longer service intervals. By contrast it's so dusty in south Texas this summer the bike I run stock air filters and change often, just pop in a new one no mess. A "convenience" choice. Keep your chain wet