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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anybody performed one of these on their XSR700? Wondering how much disassembly I'll need to do. Also any tips you have to make the job go smoother will be greatly appreciated.
 

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There is a pretty good youtube video called "FZ 07 Throttle Body Synchronizing" by Jake the Garden Snake. Similar bikes, I've ordered a Carbtune to do mine when it starts raining. Tank panels, side panels, air box off, until we can figure out how to get to the fittings. There is only one screw to adjust. First time doing it will make it easier the second. I'll make notes when I do mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Awesome! I'll be waiting anxiously to see how it goes for you.
 

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OK, here is my step by step, throttle body prep...with pics...
Remove seat, fuel tank panels (I make a cardboard template for locating all the screws) and side panels
Remove front tank bolt, and rear allen screws that hold tank on (2 on each side)
Disconnect front overflow hose (white dot) on front right side of tank
Disconnect front breather hose (blue dot) on front right side of tank
Unplug the air temp sensor at front right of tank
Unplug the black fuel pump connector from under tank from the left side
Put a rag underneath the tank where the fuel hose is
Unplug the fuel hose coupling from under the tank from the right side
Slide the orange connector back away from hose, squeeze both sides of the black part to disconnect hose
A small amount of fuel will come out
Lift tank off to someplace safe
Disconnect the air pressure sensor hose on left side, leads from a blue connector down to throttle body # 1, left side
This is where the carbtune hose will attach to the #1 throttle body
Throttle body # 2 fitting is hidden down there, pic shows it with the rubber cap on it.
Carbtune hose # 2 will attach there after you remove the cap, good luck with that.
You can probably pry it off with a screwdriver, or they do make fuel hose pliers that may get in there.
EDIT: the hose "bib" I.D. is 4 mm, and the carbtune hose I.D. is 5mm, I just used some windshield wiper tubing as a bushing so the hose was snug.
Adjusting screw is behind where the hose goes.
Put the fuel tank on, hooking up the fuel pump connector and fuel hose fitting.
With the fuel tank back on, you may need the 90 degree turning screwdriver tool, due to lack of space, if you can't get your hand in there to adjust screw.
Adjust per the instructions on whatever balancing gizmo you may be using.
When done adjusting, replace the cap on fitting for body # 2, put the air pressure sensor hose back on body # 1, replace everything else in reverse order.
 

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OK, here is my step by step, throttle body prep...with pics...
Remove seat, fuel tank panels (I make a cardboard template for locating all the screws) and side panels
Remove front tank bolt, and rear allen screws that hold tank on (2 on each side)
Disconnect front overflow hose (white dot) on front right side of tank
Disconnect front breather hose (blue dot) on front right side of tank
Unplug the air temp sensor at front right of tank
Unplug the black fuel pump connector from under tank from the left side
Put a rag underneath the tank where the fuel hose is
Unplug the fuel hose coupling from under the tank from the right side
Slide the orange connector back away from hose, squeeze both sides of the black part to disconnect hose
A small amount of fuel will come out
Lift tank off to someplace safe
Disconnect the air pressure sensor hose on left side, leads from a blue connector down to throttle body # 1, left side
This is where the carbtune hose will attach to the #1 throttle body
Throttle body # 2 fitting is hidden down there, pic shows it with the rubber cap on it.
Carbtune hose # 2 will attach there after you remove the cap, good luck with that.
You can probably pry it off with a screwdriver, or they do make fuel hose pliers that may get in there.
Adjusting screw is behind where the hose goes.
Put the fuel tank on, hooking up the fuel pump connector and fuel hose fitting.
With the fuel tank back on, you may need the 90 degree turning screwdriver tool, due to lack of space, if you can't get your hand in there to adjust screw.
Adjust per the instructions on whatever balancing gizmo you may be using.
When done adjusting, replace the cap on fitting for body # 2, put the air pressure sensor hose back on body # 1, replace everything else in reverse order.
My first question is what makes you think they are out of sync in the first place and what do you expect to gain by doing it?
 

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My first question is what makes you think they are out of sync in the first place and what do you expect to gain by doing it?
Well, it's in the manual as a regular maintenance item. Do it at the first 600 mile service, at 8K, then every 4K after.

Having said that, I just hit 10K and haven't done it, as I have a friend with the CP3 motor in a FZ-09 who just passed 80K miles and recently checked his for the first time and they were dead on.

I'd like to do it at some point in the near future, likely around the 12K mark.
 

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And the other reason is I'm retired, and it's raining here. The bike has been polished, tires checked, cables and chain are lubed. I don't believe dealer did it at my first service, no tell tale signs, and I've synched carbs in the past and just like to do these sorts of things. My throttle feels like one cylinder is leading the other when twisting from idle. I would be able to sleep nights if it improves after being synched.
 

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And the other reason is I'm retired, and it's raining here.
Motorcyclist's Mantra: If you can't ride it, at least you can work on it.

My throttle feels like one cylinder is leading the other when twisting from idle. I would be able to sleep nights if it improves after being synched.
Could you describe what you mean by that? I will say that in my opinion, the off-idle character of this motor is fairly unique because of the 270° crank, closer to a small V-Twin but... different, of course, because the cylinder aren't moving in opposing directions, haha. Curious what you are feeling.
 

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The reason I asked the question in the first place is that throttle body syncing is rarely done unless they have been changed, i.e. worked on for some reason or the idle seems to be rough. The service manual says to check a whole array of things, including valve clearance before checking throttle body sync. I believe the reason for that is because the throttle body sync is the least thing to be causing an issue with the way the bike is running. Personally, the only bike I've ever had to check throttle body sync on was my 1981 Honda Goldwing and they were a royal pain to get right with three screws to work with to get it correct and it wasn't even FI, but a carbed rig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jacson,
Thanks so much for doing that and providing such detailed info and pictures!
 
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