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Discussion Starter #1
The XSR 700 Owner’s Manual makes no mention of wheel removal. I guess Yamaha assume we’ll all be happy to pay a main dealer to replace our tyres. Most independent garages and tyre shops will change bike tyres if you take your wheels in but probably won’t want to remove the wheels from your bike. So what to do?
I bought my new tyres online at a huge cost saving compared to main dealer prices. My local tyre shop said they’d swap them over for me for a small payment. Removing the front and rear wheels isn’t difficult - with a bit of care it’s well within the capabilities of an ‘average owner’. In the absence of any printed instructions, I worked it out based on past experience. Here’s a brief guide to what was involved – follow it entirely at your own risk!!

1 Before raising the bike, slightly loosen both the rear axle nut (27mm) and the front spindle bolt (19mm)
2 Raise the bike on a stand (available cheaply online). You’ll need to place a piece of wood under the sump to avoid damaging that huge exhaust box which Yamaha slung under our bikes! This way, the weight will be taken through the sump. WARNING: the bike will need to be secured to something solid (eg the floor) to prevent it falling over.



Rear wheel removal
  • Remove the licence plate – it’ll give you easier access to the rear wheel
  • Remove the rear axle nut
  • Loosen the chain adjuster nuts fully, both sides
  • Remove the spindle by tapping it carefully from the right using a hide faced or rubber hammer. Support the wheel while you do this
  • As the spindle is withdrawn, pull the rear brake caliper off its slide and secure it out of the way. Don’t let it dangle by its hose. Don’t operate the footbrake while the rear caliper is removed
  • The adjuster end pieces (they probably have a proper name!) will come loose as the spindle is withdrawn – put them to one side
  • Push the wheel fully forwards and remove the chain from the rear sprocket
  • The wheel can now be removed – avoid damaging the ABS sensor as the wheel is withdrawn
  • Remove both spindle collars from the wheel – you don’t want them falling out in a tyre shop
Front wheel removal
  • Slacken the single fork pinch bolt (yes, there is only one!) - 6mm allen
  • Remove the front brake caliper retaining bolts (12mm) – two on each caliper
  • Carefully remove both brake calipers and secure them out of the way. Don’t let them dangle on their hoses - I used cable ties. Don’t operate the front brake lever while the calipers are removed
  • Withdraw the spindle by fully undoing the spindle bolt and pulling it. Support the front wheel as you do this.
  • Remove the wheel carefully – avoid damaging the ABS sensor
  • Remove both spindle collars from the wheel and put them to one side

Refitting is pretty much the reversal of these steps but note these points:
Refitting rear wheel
  • The rear brake caliper must be re-positioned on its slider before the wheel spindle is replaced. Feed the caliper carefully over the brake disc without damaging the pads
  • Be careful not to damage the ABS sensor as the wheel is repositioned
  • Set the correct chain tension (see owner’s manual) before tightening the axle nut. Leave final tightening of the axle nut until the bike is off its stand
Refitting front wheel
  • Be careful not to damage the ABS sensor as the wheel is repositioned
  • Refit the spindle before you refit the brake calipers
  • Feed both brake calipers carefully over the front discs without damaging the pads. Tighten the caliper retaining bolts (40Nm)
  • Again, leave final tightening of the spindle nut and fork pinch bolt until the bike is off its stand
Now, lower the bike onto its side stand, then:
  • Tighten the rear axle nut (105Nm)
  • Check that the chain tension is still correct. Adjust if needed
  • Raise the rear wheel on a paddock stand and pump the rear brake pedal a few times to check brake caliper function. Remove the paddock stand
  • Tighten the front axle bolt fully (65Nm)
  • Hold the bike and pump the front forks a few times, then tighten the fork pinch bolt (6mm allen). Torque setting unknown, just don’t over–tighten it!
  • Pump the front brake lever a few times to check caliper function
Now pour yourself a cold beer and admire your new tyres!


Take the bike for a short test ride (before the beer?) to check everything’s OK. Remember new tyres need to be scrubbed in for about 50 miles (80km), so take it steady!

25 Posts
Thanks for the detailed information here. I need to remove the forks to put on some fork gaiters, but haven’t figured out how to properly lift and secure the bike without buying a head stand. Is the lift that your using from harbor freight? I’ve seen a similar looking one there.

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601 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hi Jackson. I bought it from EBay here in the UK:

There are a lot around with various brand names but they all look like they originate from the same factory in China!
I chose the one above for its price (£39) and positive reviews. I've used it several times on various bikes and it's been fine so far. It's pretty solid and rated to 1200lbs (540kg), so more than enough for any of my bikes. But, as I said in the piece above, you do need to secure the bike when you lift it.
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