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Please do a service on your bike before the max interval!

8155 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Skelee
So I got my bike with 1.6k miles on the clock.

At 3k miles, I decided to do an oil and filter change, as well as a general check. This is well before the next service due at 6k miles. The top end was sounding quite clattery when red hot after a good blast, as well.

The oil that came out was horrible :( very thin, and not the cleanest.

I changed it for Motul 5000 10w40 and a K&N filter (no real reason for K&N, it was just good value and I like the logo!) - £34 inc delivery from sportsbikeshop.

What a difference! The top end clatter has quietened right down. I wish I'd dropped the oil as soon as I bought it.
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Presumably your oil + filter were changed at the 600 miles first service by a main dealer? It does make you wonder whether they used an inferior oil when they refilled it....... or even whether the service was done at all.
I remember seeing a service stamp at a low mileage and I'm sure it will have been the 600 mile service.

The oil was thin, like 0w20/0w30 oil is. I wonder if they just chucked any old stuff in!

The book clearly specifies 10w40 which is common-as-muck tractor oil grade ;) although obviously we use a JASO wet-clutch friendly high quality version.

as an engineer, I subscribe to the school of thought i heard years ago: you can never, ever, change your oil too often.
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Local dealer quite animated about only using Yamalube 10w40 semi synthetic. I was looking to use Castrol Power 1 4T 10w40. Dealer went on about how Yamaha have developed this oil and it's the bees knees for their motors. While I can see some truth in it, surely there are just as good if not better oils out there for this bike.
I use Castrol Power 1 10W-40 semi-syn in my XSR and V Strom. It's fine and meets all Yamaha's specs.
Yamaha, like Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and the rest, all have major oil refiners blend their oil. Each one specifies their additive package, so without some serious chemical forensics, you will never know what's different. But in the long run, the fact is absolutely any JASO-MA (not MA2) oil will do the job. Synthetics should also be JASO-MA as well. It is all about friction modifiers.

I personally would avoid any oil that does not meet JASO-MA standards. Just because...

The JASO MA Motorcycle oil standard is: Japanese standard for special oil which can be used in 4-stroke motorcycle engine with one oil system for engine, gearbox and wet clutch system. Fluid is non-friction modified. ... If it is, it will cause the clutch to slip, which is a huge issue which can completely be avoided.

I know there will be people saying "I've run XYZ for ever and it isn't JASO-MA standard". To which I will simply say good for you. I'll stick with something that is actually meeting a credible standard that takes the wet clutch and gear box into account. Kind of like a helmet meeting the Snell, EC 22.05, or DOT standards versus taking someone's word saying a football helmet will work. I know which one I'll rely on, the credible one. (No insults intended, had to use the football helmet thing because virtually all motorcycle helmets meet one, two or all three standards. Fact is I was all on board for Snell until the credible Dr. Thom and Dexter Ford did the Motorcyclist testing and found the DOT helmets were meeting those standards too, just not tested for it. Credible sources.) When there's a credible source the information is good. By the way one JASO-MA oil was and I think still is Rotella. You have to check the label to be sure. You don't have to buy the big buck dealer oil, Walmart, among others, sells motorcycle oil, usually a national brand.

I'm personally running Yamaha oil, not that much more expensive than doing some others and I like the people at the shop. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
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yamaha oil meets JASO MA standards , look it up
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