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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Been looking to cut my fork spacers down 10mm, anyone recommend a pipe cutter that is up to the job? Was it Flyer who did this successfully? Am also putting in K Tech Linear springs and heavier oil (12.5w)
 

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I bought a cheap pipe cutter from toolstation that done the job as the spacer is quite thin. I think I paid a fiver for it if I remember rightly.
 

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Do you know a plumber? if so, ask them to cut it for you. Maybe offer them a couple beers too. And no, I am not joking or kidding. I've had a plumber friend cut stuff before.

I've got a low buck tubing cutter that I've used for years, even cutting handlebars down.

One more is if you have access to a bandsaw with a fine tooth heat treated blade (like a hacksaw blade) then rotate it around slowly while cutting to keep the cut relatively square.
 

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Hey Mav, you want to make sure you only cut one more time. Why not run a week with a pvc spacer, you can cut it with a $cheap pvc saw, and adjust it some more, find the sweet spot for sure that's best for you, not what everybody else says

Then get that pipie cut. Or just keep running the pvc, it works fine, just deburr it and sand it
 

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My question is, @Mav617 what are you aiming for?

The OEM linear springs with 8,5 N/mm are quite okay for an average rider of 75 kg (+/- clothing). So in my opinion you only drop the front by cutting 10 mm off.

I am not a real fan of them, but for a every day commuter seeking for comfort and suitable set up for most of the riding conditions, I would go for a pair of progressive springs, instead of linear springs.
Even with the fact that the manufacturers do not tell their spring rate they are a good compromise for average weighted riders. From Wilbers progressive springs I know, that people below 75 kg even go for a lower 7,5W instead of the suggested 10W.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My question is, @Mav617 what are you aiming for?

The OEM linear springs with 8,5 N/mm are quite okay for an average rider of 75 kg (+/- clothing). So in my opinion you only drop the front by cutting 10 mm off.

I am not a real fan of them, but for a every day commuter seeking for comfort and suitable set up for most of the riding conditions, I would go for a pair of progressive springs, instead of linear springs.
Even with the fact that the manufacturers do not tell their spring rate they are a good compromise for average weighted riders. From Wilbers progressive springs I know, that people below 75 kg even go for a lower 7,5W instead of the suggested 10W.
Thanks hombacher, just want to stiffen the front and reduce pogo effect. I'll try the new springs with the 12.5w oil I just put in and see how it feels, I can reassemble the bike and still get to the spacer if I want to go ahead and try it later or maybe I'll do what Pursuvant suggests and try 140mm pvc spacers first. Now I don't commute on it I'd rather it handle than be comfy as I ride weekends only on the XSR with a lunatic pilot on his Street Triple.
 

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Hi,

Been looking to cut my fork spacers down 10mm, anyone recommend a pipe cutter that is up to the job? Was it Flyer who did this successfully? Am also putting in K Tech Linear springs and heavier oil (12.5w)
I did it and having never used a pipe cutter before, messed it up and had to buy another pair. Second time round I took it to a bike shop and gave them a tenner to do it right with a big bench saw. It was well worth while. The sag at the front is spot on now. So for my two cents, save the money on the cutter and get someone to do it properly.

12.5w might leave you wanting more but it’s easy enough to experiment. The viscosity isn’t standard across all manufacturers so it’s worth looking at a viscosity chart and comparing with some alternatives. I went with motul 15w and I’m tempted to go to 20.
 

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Well, it all depends on your weight, as others have mentioned :unsure:
For me (heavy bastard, certainly way above 75Kg) I added length to the spacers (with adjustable caps/spacer) and then changed the oil to 23W (mix of 15W and 25W). The fork now sits with the correct sag and no longer bounces back too fast (correct rebound). Riding feel in the twisties has indeed improved :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks all, spacers cut 10mm and KTech springs ordered (9.0) and should arrive Thursday and some preload adjusters ordered (M-Factory cheap chinese ones). Now to save for a rear shock, probably go YSS.
 

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I'm the guy who out the thread on about cutting down the spacer 10 mm and that was taken from a guy who does a lot of suspension work trackside for those who are trying to remedy their suspension woes. I bought the pipe cutter from Harbor freight for CHEAP at about 9 or 10 bucks. The way you go about it is to only tighten the cutting wheel by about a half turn at a time so you don't crush or bend the pipe, As said, those spacers are really thin so you have to be careful. I'm also not sure about cutting them with a toothed saw like a band saw or hack saw because the edge you leave may chew into whatever that spacer is restring against. One last tid bit is, the pogo effect is not caused by a soft spring, it's cause by a spring that is actually too tensioned so putting in a "stiffer" spring is just what you dont want for a properly tuned front end, you'll lose sag, and 15w oil was recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm the guy who out the thread on about cutting down the spacer 10 mm and that was taken from a guy who does a lot of suspension work trackside for those who are trying to remedy their suspension woes. I bought the pipe cutter from Harbor freight for CHEAP at about 9 or 10 bucks. The way you go about it is to only tighten the cutting wheel by about a half turn at a time so you don't crush or bend the pipe, As said, those spacers are really thin so you have to be careful. I'm also not sure about cutting them with a toothed saw like a band saw or hack saw because the edge you leave may chew into whatever that spacer is restring against. One last tid bit is, the pogo effect is not caused by a soft spring, it's cause by a spring that is actually too tensioned so putting in a "stiffer" spring is just what you dont want for a properly tuned front end, you'll lose sag, and 15w oil was recommended.
Thanks Flyer, thought it was yourself - I bought a decent one off Amazon for £19, it'll come in for round the house/pond am sure. Made a nice cut, though I did overtighten at one point and it bent the spacer a little but still, I now have 10mm taken off each spacer, the 12.w oil and the springs and preload caps to come. The seller suggested 9.0, apparently standard are around 8.7, will see how it goes. Is yours back together/tested since you shortened the spacers?
 

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get it locked/pressed firmly but not pressured on your drawn line, 1/2 turn, score around, 1/2 turn, score around, continue eventually you cut through nice clean even, how I cut copper for plumbing.
 

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Sorry, @Mav617 still not get it.

OEM springs are 8,5 N/mm (as written above), with the help of some comparison tables they are more than just okay for a 75 kg rider. I would even suggest them for a 85 kg rider plus clothing.

K-Tech springs are 5 mm shorter than OEM. You cut off 10 mm of the spacer. Did you check the length of the preload adjusters in advance? Some write that the Chinas are that short, that they do not touch the springs. So as I am quite confused, hope you are doing better. So what is your weight? Is it more than 95 kg plus clothing?

And which viscosity does K-Tech recommend?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi HB, I weigh around 80 kilos, without any gear on. Don't think K-Tech recommend any particular viscosity, might be something on the paperwork when they turn up and if 12.5 too stiff I can always replace it. Seems viscosity of different brands is all over the place. The preload adjusters reckon they add 10mm at lowest setting, up to 20mm wound down. They look to be longer than the fork caps by about that at I'd say, would post a link but it's massive lol. Wasn't aware the springs are 5mm shorter than the stock ones though, went with supplier recommendation (Brook Suspension)
 
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