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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have the exact OEM parts?
Yamaha Filter?
Crush Washer?

I know Oil type (Yamalube 10W-40)
I know recommended to get Oil Filter Wrench - anyone have a link to one that is proper size?

Thanks. I read through other posts before asking for this, and no one posts the crush washer OEM or at least exact size of the crush washer, nor the exact model # for the Yamaha OEM filter. Those part #s or exact sizes are not described in any of the service manuals. Please correct me if I am wrong and show me the link :)

Thanks!

-Dan
 

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You can buy the washers and filters at your dealer if you want OEM.
Otherwise a K&N filter # 204, or HiFlow # 204.
The crush washer is a 14mm aluminum or copper if you want universal, which work fine. The OEM item is like a spark plug gasket.
If you need OEM parts, the part numbers are...
Filter # 5GH-13440-60-00
Washer # 214-11198-01-00
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You can buy the washers and filters at your dealer if you want OEM.
Otherwise a K&N filter # 204, or HiFlow # 204.
The crush washer is a 14mm aluminum or copper if you want universal, which work fine. The OEM item is like a spark plug gasket.
If you need OEM parts, the part numbers are...
Filter # 5GH-13440-60-00
Washer # 214-11198-01-00
Thank you!, exactly what I was looking for. Much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thank you both. Will be ordering the parts soon, and posting pics here for others in need. Thanks!

So $70 the first time, $57 every time thereafter (buy wrench bit once). Dealer wanted $200 for oil change, check chain, and other checks. Will definitely get a full service someday, but I have checked everything they would check this go-round, so would rather save $130.
 

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Whatever you do, DON'T over tighten either the drain bolt or the filter. They don't need it and all you'll do is strip the drain bolt threads or make removing the filter a real drag. Even the factory usually over tightens the filter. I've had filters only tight enough that I could remove it with my bare hands and didn't leak a drop. Once it's snug, just a half turn or so and you'll be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Whatever you do, DON'T over tighten either the drain bolt or the filter. They don't need it and all you'll do is strip the drain bolt threads or make removing the filter a real drag. Even the factory usually over tightens the filter. I've had filters only tight enough that I could remove it with my bare hands and didn't leak a drop. Once it's snug, just a half turn or so and you'll be good to go.
.

Thank you. Will do, or won't do :) Great advice.
 

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Does everyone here replace the drain bolt washer everytime they change the oil? I haven't done an oil change yet, is it a crush washer?
 

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Yes, it's an absurdly over-priced crush washer. You could probably get by with a cheaper plain aluminium or copper 14mm washer, which most bikes use. It's good practice to replace the washer when you change the oil, though you could probably get away with re-using it - just check carefully for leaks. But, as others have said - don't over tighten the drain bolt!
 

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Yes, it's an absurdly over-priced crush washer. You could probably get by with a cheaper plain aluminium or copper 14mm washer, which most bikes use. It's good practice to replace the washer when you change the oil, though you could probably get away with re-using it - just check carefully for leaks. But, as others have said - don't over tighten the drain bolt!

At least it's not like my Suzuki... the oil drains from 3 different parts on the bike and all 3 drain bolts use a $6 crush washer.
 

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Dont mean to revive an old thread but I'm extremely proud of myself today as I followed this guide and managed to do an oil and oil filter change today on my bike.
I know it's said it's an easy job but I've always been a bit apprehensive about tackling mechanical jobs. Thankfully this seems to have gone well (thus far) and look forward to tackling more maintenance stuff on my bike.

Love this forum. Thanks for the guide guys.
 

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Well done, B-track...onward and upwards! When you've done a simple maintenance job successfully, it does make you wonder why folk pay main dealers £140+ to do the same thing! Personally, I'd rather trust myself not to strip the thread on my sump than anyone else!
 

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I happened to come across this thread again this morning while checking the site. Maybe it's just me and my experience with riding and doing my own maintenance, but, if a rider can't do their own oil change, maybe they should find another sport. It's like "how do I open the glove box" on a car. If it's too complicated, there are other things to get involved with.
 

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Just done an oil change....

Oil and K&N filter £30 from M&P on eBay free P&P
crush washer from www.wemoto.com 26 pence with free P&P + a key ring!

Old oil filter removed with old screwdriver method
 
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