[arturobandissimo]

Hi folks,

I'm fairly technically adept and have done quite a few mods to my bike but I have not gotten into splicing into the wiring yet.

I'd like to do a mod that would give me the ability to flick a rocker switch and blackout all the active lights on the bike, even while its running, engine on, etc.

I have pulled the lighting schematic from the service manual but it's quite dense as many of you know.

I'm wondering for the electronics experts here what you think would be the best positions, (if possible all underseat, etc) to splice into the headlight, tail light, and license plate (and or any other running lights that exist on the bike). I can perform the soldering/tapping quite fine I'm just trying to create my plan and where to tap into everything.

I noticed there is an open/available harness that is capped off under the seat with a rubber cover. Not sure what that does but I'm also curious if it could help me on this project or another if anyone has any clues to that.

Attempting to insert an image inline below. If it gets compressed or crushed I can host the high res somewhere and link it.

 

[gnarlydog]

While I am not judging, I can't help it but to question myself what could be the use of a "black-out" of all visible lights, but a nefarious one
Do tell, if I am totally wrong

 

[arturobandissimo]

While I am not judging, I can't help it but to question myself what could be the use of a "black-out" of all visible lights, but a nefarious one
Do tell, if I am totally wrong

I have my reasons, lol.

 

[SleviN]

something that may be easier is essentially extending a fuse and putting a switch inline with that, its a hack but it would work
see what fuses control the headlight assembly, turn signals and brake light

 

[arturobandissimo]

something that may be easier is essentially extending a fuse and putting a switch inline with that, its a hack but it would work
see what fuses control the headlight assembly, turn signals and brake light

That’s a very sensible idea. Thank you… def going to explore that option.

 

[EricV]

The capped off connector under the seat is for OBDII diagnostic use. You will want to clarify what year your XSR is, as US '22 bikes are all LED, (except the license plate light), and likely have a different harness.

Gauge cluster as well?

If you just want to turn off headlight/brake/running lights and license plate light, don't cut/splice the OEM wiring. That's reducing the value to the next owner and inviting more problems than you need. Instead, build an inline piece to interrupt the circuit and plug it into an existing spot where plugs already exist. You could do this in some cases at the fuses, using an inline fuse in place of the original fuse holder. You might be able to do this with the headlight relay in a similar fashion.

Another method in some cases is to interrupt the ground instead of interrupting the 12v side of the circuit.

Eastern Beaver has a lot of OEM connectors if you need a Yamaha connector or a few.

Moose Utility has some offerings that also may be of interest, components and pigtail harnesses.

Cycle Terminal is another source.

Wire Care & Ron Francis also.

 

[DGR]

"And the award for Most shady topic of the year goes to...."

 

[arturobandissimo]

The capped off connector under the seat is for OBDII diagnostic use. You will want to clarify what year your XSR is, as US '22 bikes are all LED, (except the license plate light), and likely have a different harness.

Gauge cluster as well?

If you just want to turn off headlight/brake/running lights and license plate light, don't cut/splice the OEM wiring. That's reducing the value to the next owner and inviting more problems than you need. Instead, build an inline piece to interrupt the circuit and plug it into an existing spot where plugs already exist. You could do this in some cases at the fuses, using an inline fuse in place of the original fuse holder. You might be able to do this with the headlight relay in a similar fashion.

Another method in some cases is to interrupt the ground instead of interrupting the 12v side of the circuit.

Eastern Beaver has a lot of OEM connectors if you need a Yamaha connector or a few.

Moose Utility has some offerings that also may be of interest, components and pigtail harnesses.

Cycle Terminal is another source.

Wire Care & Ron Francis also.

It's a 2018.

Thanks for clarifying about the OBDII diagnostic harness. That clears that up for me.

The gauge cluster isn't high priority, just all the active running lights.

If there is a way for me to make some soft mods and clip into existing harnesses, relays, I'd love to be able to do that. Thanks for sharing the links.

In that vein I found the cable routing diagrams in the service manual (around page 80) which is hugely helpful for identifying which wires are going into which couplers, etc.

I'm planning on doing some preliminary testing by simply unhooking these couplers while the lights are on to see if I'm killing the right electronics. If I can ID everything I'll wire up the switch from there.

 

[DeepBarney]

Tapping into the fuse or isolating the circuits from ground would be the least intrusive and easily reversible ways to handle this. In order to isolate each with a single switch I believe you would need a relay for each circuit that get triggered via another relay that's triggered by your new blackout switch.

And maybe his purposes aren't nefarious, cops have this technology on their cruisers here in the states. Maybe he's some kick-ass plain clothes detective who has to do stake outs and doesn't want the lights drawing attention but needs to be able to hit the gas to bug out at a moment's notice.

 

[EricV]

A latching relay might work for this with a momentary switch to trigger it. Latching relays flip and hold until the next press of the switch.