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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
These pics show the headlight located with freehand fabricated triangle mounts.
Of course all that shiny stuff gets blasted and powder coated satin black....
The running lights on the Koso turn signals should line up nicely with the white LED bar in the Koso headlight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 · (Edited)
Here is a sneak peek of the cardboard "mock-up", I'm making 2-3 more, until I like the coverage/proportions.
Once I get the shape the way I want it, I will roll a sheet of 5mm aluminum at work, transfer, cut, and coat it.
You just have to imagine every shiny part powder coated satin black.
 

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You can do prototyping for brackets with 1/4" (6mm or whatever) hardboard too. Easy to cut and cheap to use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
This SW Motech screen for XSR900 is one of the design inspiration points I am trying to create.
My headlight is much lower and shorter, so the screen becomes much more vertical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
OK, round 3 ...
I'll make any final adjustments in the aluminum.
Done with cardboard moock-ups.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
OK, curved a slab of aluminum, and transfered my pattern over, cut it out, and glass beaded it.
It's just sitting there with a wad of tape holding it up. Working on the support brackets tomorrow morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Windscreen support brackets complete.
I need to make one more pair of small tabs, to hang the headlight ring from.
Then, pull everything off, and powdercoat.
 

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I prototype brackets with sheetmetal, I have tons of scraps lying around, zero cost.
Just a thought. Not everyone has scrap laying around for free. The hard board works well for flat heavier styling like headlight supports and similar brackets. The big advantage for the average rider is that they can be done in about 15 minutes after doing prints, being able to cut fast with a band saw and drill. Sanding with a belt sander if needed is also fast and easy. So for the average person the hardboard is easy to find, cheap if it has to be bought, and will cut similar to aluminum. It also isn't a big deal to bin the failures, rather than waste the metal... again, if they have to buy it. May sound Mickey Mouse doing them that way, but again, prototype, like using cardboard for prototyping panels or shields.

It made sense for my use, since my headlight brackets are being made from 3/8" black opaque acrylic plexiglass with edges polished, no painting, powder coating, or anodizing. I would have done it the same if I'd cut the final part out of aluminum... because I'm not fortunate enough to have tons of scrap laying around... wish I did have the scrap to play with.
 

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So did you make the "shield" out of aluminum? Is the plan to put a piece of plexiglass on it and heat it up until the plexiglass droops down onto the metal? You could be putting yourself into business that way. I had a neighbor did a tall windshield for his Vetter fairing on his BMW that way. looked perfect, no imperfections in the shield that I could see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
It’s 5mm aluminum, and that’s the final product.
It’s way too low to look through. I’m powder coating it semi-gloss black.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 · (Edited)
I got the headlight tube brackets welded... done.
Fitted the billet sleeves, with custom belt sander shaved o-rings, to take up the gap at the top.
Now, full fork tear down. change oil, fit booties.
 

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It’s 5mm aluminum, and that’s the final product.
It’s way too low to look through. I’m powder coating it semi-gloss black.
If you could do it, you could probably sell shields like that made of plexiglass. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Upper sleeves, and fork brace, and many fasteners made it out of the powdercoating oven.
MANY more parts are baking RIGHT NOW!
 

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