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Discussion Starter · #44 ·

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Do those handguards make 2 point contact? I wanted something strong, so if they ever make contact with the ground, they will protect the switchgear. I love your Leo Vince underbody exhaust.
Only at the endcaps. The guards are more style than function.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
My Renthal Fatbar (Street Naked bend), and an unexpected splurge, Righteous Stunt Clutch, 2 finger, trigger lever, raw machined finish, black anodized.
Ridiculously expensive... but smooth as silk, and looks fantastic.
 

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I actually like the looks of the Koso headlight in the stock tube frame. For my headlight, used brackets only a little shorter than the stock ones, and already had trouble to fit all the cables behind the headlight - i guess this might become an issue.
First of all, hello guys this is my first post. I have been reading for a long time in the forum, but was mostly "lurking". This year I started to change some things on my xsr700 and the next thing will be the headlight. I am also thinking about the KOSO Thunderbolt and I am a bit worried about the bigger ignition lock here in Europe and if I fit all the cables behind the headlight.I want to use short brackets from Highsider.

Prime07, have you already installed the Koso on your bike? How did you handle the cable-management if I may ask?

Thank you all for sharing your projects and your experiences.
 

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Prime07, have you already installed the Koso on your bike? How did you handle the cable-management if I may ask?
Actually, i have installed another headlight (Purpose Built Moto). A friend of mine fabricated brackets which are 1 cm shorter than the stock ones. But in theory, you can get pretty close to the fork, have a look at the Kedo Super 7 build for example.
 

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Actually, i have installed another headlight (Purpose Built Moto). A friend of mine fabricated brackets which are 1 cm shorter than the stock ones. But in theory, you can get pretty close to the fork, have a look at the Kedo Super 7 build for example.
Thank you. I am just a bit worried about the bigger Ignition-Lock in Europe. Did you remove the stock tube frame?
And where did you put the cables?
Sorry for all those stupid questions.
 

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@Rasberry18 the good thing is, you can remove that tube square completely without causing any problems. This tube square is heavy like hell.



For attaching any headlight, you can go for with a lot of of the shelf offers or some tailor made. Even the chance to go for a roadster style mount, attaching to the lower triple clamp would be possible. As there are some threads already available.

Turn signals can be attached to the upper triple clamps, to the radiator fairing. Not the OEM look at least, but will underline that snub-nosed front.
Hello Hombacher
Sorry for replying to an older post.
I wanted to ask, if it was easy to remove the OEM tube square? Is it only screwed on? How did you handle the cables? Did you have to do any soldering?

I want to use brackets like these:
highsider-lampenhalter-alu-vario-kurz
 

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Thank you. I am just a bit worried about the bigger Ignition-Lock in Europe. Did you remove the stock tube frame?
And where did you put the cables?
Sorry for all those stupid questions.
I did not remove the tube frame. And the cables are in the free space between the frame and the headlight. If you want, i can make some pictures
 

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I did not remove the tube frame. And the cables are in the free space between the frame and the headlight. If you want, i can make some pictures
But to remove it, you could just unscrew it?
Yes that would be very kind of you. I am really interested.

Can somebody explain what is needed to fit the cables of the koso to the bike? Is it required to solder some connections for the parking light for example. Thank you all very much in advance
 

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But to remove it, you could just unscrew it?
Yes that would be very kind of you. I am really interested.

Can somebody explain what is needed to fit the cables of the koso to the bike? Is it required to solder some connections for the parking light for example. Thank you all very much in advance
I think you can unscrew it simply, but i cannot say for sure.

Low-, highbeam and ground should be plug and play, as the headlight has the same 3 pin connector as the stock one. The standing light has to be connected with some soldering or a crimp connector.

BUT it could be, that you have to remove the bulky 3 pin connector to save the limited space behind the headlight, and connect it directly to the wiring harness (soldering, crimp connector). I did that, before that it was a mess, now it looks relatively clean.
 

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Thank you so so much for your fast reply! For a newbie like me, that is really valuable information. And to see how it looks with the bigger ignition lock and all.
Because of the 3pin connectors, you automatically see which color of the original lamp goes to which of the new one, right?
The standing light on the original lamp is also separate?

I hope I didn't annoy you with my questions and I am really grateful.
 

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Because of the 3pin connectors, you automatically see which color of the original lamp goes to which of the new one, right?
Not necessarely. But it should be no problem to test them out

The standing light on the original lamp is also separate?
exactly, it is a separate wire and lightbulb

I hope I didn't annoy you with my questions
:D dont worry, if i get annoyed, i will stop answering
 

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Not necessarely. But it should be no problem to test them out



exactly, it is a separate wire and lightbulb



:D dont worry, if i get annoyed, i will stop answering

Thank you again. How would you test that out? Just trial and error? I am just a bit worried to damage something.
I am not sure if I should solder or rather crimp.

My headlight will arrive in a few weeks so I am just trying to plan as much as possible ahead.
 

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I did it with trial and error. I don't think that you can damage anything with 12v.

Soldering is the nicer solution, with some shrink tubes. Crimping is less work and easier if you are new to soldering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
OK, finally getting back to this build project...
My new master cylinder showed up this morning.
Only 2/3 of my new Goodridge Ebony Black lines have been delivered so far.
Jake (the snake), and Twinstunts on YouTube run the 15mm Magura master.
The XSR700 has a "decent" front brake, the lever "feel" is just lacking.
For about $400 all said and done, I am confident this will make them feel more premium.
 

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