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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My plan is -
1) JvB fork boots (they look nice and thick/good proportion)
2) OEM Yamaha MT07 upper fork covers (I want the black out, OEM is fair priced)
3) Koso turn signals (like I already used in the tail)
4) Koso headlight (I love the one piece unit)
I will show a pic of the Brogue (Koso) kit, I plan to remove the lower part of the tube ring/frame.
My goal is to mount it as low/flush/tucked as possible, nearly identical to where JvB mounts their light.
Then, I will fabricate a flyscreen from 3/16" aluminum. And powdercoat it semi-flat black.
 

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Ras, blackout up front looks great, a tip about the upper fork covers, they should include 2 o-rings each side, to keep them from moving/vibrating. Get an extra o-ring to stuff in each side, they secure better that way.

I'm neutral on replacing grandma's wash bucket Yami used for a headlight bucket, but I can see why you are tucking it in, so u can do a windscreen. Bet it will look very nice, keep us in on it with pics plz.

One more, might be a good time to run a wire from the fused 12 DC AUX under the rectifier into the headlight housing, plug in a USB COM-C for your phone, and run a short water resistant USB cable up to handlebars. Hiking supply stores usually have some waterproof USB cables.

But be careful inside the headlight, don't let the setup get in the way of the spinning cooling fan on your aftermarket LED headlight bulb
 

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Discussion Starter #3
[QUOTE="Pursuvant, post: 96810]

But be careful inside the headlight, don't let the setup get in the way of the spinning cooling fan on your aftermarket LED headlight bulb
[/QUOTE]
I appreciate the tip on 2 o-rings, I'll gladly order extras, I do plan on adding a fused 12v-USB 3A adapter for phone use (had one on my last bike), but I am not sure about your last comment. The Koso Thunderbolt headlight is passively cooled, there is no fan.
 

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I like the direction you're headed with your front end. I looked up the Koso light and from the installation instructions I checked, it is self contained and it has built in cooling fins or else it is using the shroud as a heat sink. Any way, it looks very much like the LED unit on my V7 although that light is a different manufacturer. I also noticed it has a secondary light, probably a ring, that is independent of the high and low beam. You don't need a bucket to stick it in.
 

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Rasberry said -
Koso Thunderbolt headlight is passively cooled, there is no fan

All good Ras, I was guessing about a fan/cooling led
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
OK, I did some careful calculating, and under close evaluation of the Yamaha headlight area, I have a plan.
I did a crude set of lines on a pic showing where I will cut, both the upper, and lower portion of the support frame.
I will remove the "stubs of tube" left in the lower bracket, and re-insert the shortened tubes back into the bracket.
I will then make a matching length extension of the upper support, where I have represented the upper cut.
Essentially lowering the tubular ring about 1 1/2".
Those Brogue headlight brackets in the photo position the light too high for my liking, I will make my own (lower).
I will then mount the Koso headlight, as far tucked back as possible.
I'm pretty confident I can create the stance I desire, while maintaining the well made support hardware.
I'm trying to create a look that could almost pass as OEM.
I will mount my Koso signal lights on the upper frame extension, similar to the position on the 2021 Triumph trident.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ras, now that's a mod, not that bolt on stuff I've been doing in my old age. Go for it, show us how it should be done!
I will make all this stuff happen in the next few months...
Here's an example of my previous project, last winter...


I sold that bike, to (mostly) fund this bike...
 

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@Rasberry18 the good thing is, you can remove that tube square completely without causing any problems. This tube square is heavy like hell.



For attaching any headlight, you can go for with a lot of of the shelf offers or some tailor made. Even the chance to go for a roadster style mount, attaching to the lower triple clamp would be possible. As there are some threads already available.

Turn signals can be attached to the upper triple clamps, to the radiator fairing. Not the OEM look at least, but will underline that snub-nosed front.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
@Rasberry18 the good thing is, you can remove that tube square completely without causing any problems. This tube square is heavy like hell.



For attaching any headlight, you can go for with a lot of of the shelf offers or some tailor made. Even the chance to go for a roadster style mount, attaching to the lower triple clamp would be possible. As there are some threads already available.

Turn signals can be attached to the upper triple clamps, to the radiator fairing. Not the OEM look at least, but will underline that snub-nosed front.
I'm not worried about a pound more, or less. And the original tube structure makes 3 point contact which makes it a very solid place to mount my headlight, and flyscreen to. Not to mention it obscures your view of the wire jungle behind the headlight. Plan "A" is it keep it, but lower it. Plan "B" would be to scrap it and fabricate my own support system.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Here's a DANDY "Yard Built" XSR700 with the Koso headlight.
I'm planning to get those Dunlop Muntant tires next summer, when mine wear out too...


I've been emailing this guy a few questions, which their site says to do...
He has responded to me, but it's basically a waste of my time, they have no parts available to retail from this kit right now.
And my build goes a different direction, although I like a few of the concepts they used.
 

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Bad winners built is doing what I said already. Remove the OEM tube square, in their case they used an USD fork. And then build something from down (lower triple clamps) to up. With the flat vertical braces they cover the wiring, the rest is carefully drawn backwards under the tank shrouds.
I think this is the most challenging work, the proper rerouting of the wires, to thin out the harness and to find invisible solutions for the brake hoses.

The ignition switch with the immobilizer antenna is difficult to disguise. Completely removing would remove the possibility for daily use as well.

If this is done, you will get the room (even with the ignition switch in its place) to install the KOSO headlight deep and pulled back. This said, I have no idea how this may look with an aded fly screen... cone head
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Like I said, my build goes a little different direction, more scrambler.
I just like some of thier choices.
My last build had what I referred to as a fly screen, but resembles a number plate. Not conically shaped.
This pic is my 1980 CX500, I'm not planning on duplicating it, but learning from it, and evolving from that idea.
A little wind protection goes a long way.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
The ignition switch with the immobilizer antenna is difficult to disguise. Completely removing would remove the possibility for daily use as well.
I live in the USA, where our ignition has no immobilizer, making it more compact. I saw a thread where they were shown side by side, for comparison.
Living over here those JvB (Kedo) fork gaiters are pretty expensive, due to overseas shipping.
I'm still waiting for a quote, their website wouldn't generate a shipping estimate for USA.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This idea might at least be worthy of cardboard prototyping on my build ... (my headlight will be much lower) ... I'm now sure why, but that really appeals to me.
I can't wait, step one, mount light, step two, create a screen, no hurry, 3-5 cardboard prototypes considered before final decision ......
 

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