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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I pulled my clutch apart to replace the plates and managed to put the clutch back together with the spring screws close to spec at nearly 80 inches of torque using a beam style torque wrench (the screws broke off a couple of times). However, now the clutch doesn’t seem to engage/disengage and I can’t get in or out of gear.
I’ve aligned the arm lever attached to the clutch case with the dot and the arrow as mentioned in the service manual, I’m able to push the lever by hand to ‘engage/disengage’ the clutch but it doesn’t seem to do anything. I’ll be honest the clutch seems ‘soft’ as in I can pull the clutch cable with very little resistance.
Not sure if the teeth on the rod isn’t engaging properly with the pressure plate or it’s something else I’m not familiar with.
Has anyone had any experience with assembling and disassembling the clutch that has suggestions?
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Is this an XSR900? (this is the XSR700 forum). I don't know if the clutch mechanism is the same but the 700 manual says: "Make sure the pull rod teeth and pull lever shaft pinion have engaged". Is the clutch visible through the oil filler hole so you could see if the clutch is moving when the lever is pulled?
The spring torque on the 700 is 8Nm or 5.8ft/lbs which is 70 inch/lbs, a "ball park" value to yours - I'm surprised they sheared at that low value.
If you put it in 1st (engine off) can you push the bike forward? It sounds like you're going to have to take it apart again. :confused:
 

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FWIW to anyone dealing with the clutch cover install and/or fastener breakage...

The bolt issue was entirely possibly linked to over tightening due to oil on the threads. Sources recommend a reduction in torque by 25-40%. Clean threads and a drop of LocTite 242 with a 20% reduction in torque apparently solved the issue of the bolts.

The OP also posted in the FZ/MT-97 forum for help. I wrote up on the thread issue:

One more thing I forgot about, that may be your problem. If the bolts have oil on them it is recommended to reduce torque by 40% in Engineering Toolbox. So instead of 86 inch-lb they would say go to 50 inch-lb. But read on...​
Otherwise clean the threads of the basket and the bolts with some contact cleaner and torque them.​
But I'd also put a dot of blue 242 LocTite on the threads, it's hand tool removal thread lock. LocTite recommends reducing the torque value by 20%, making it about 68 inch-lb. This was covered in an article by Kevin Cameron in Cycle World on the subject, click here.​

Another FZ/MT-07 member posted this simple great video:

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yes, it’s a xsr900. I’ve put together a video to see if anyone can spot what I’m doing wrong. If the bike is in neutral it can move fine, the clutch just won’t engage/disengage so I’m unable to change gears and the bike stalls out. I got a beam style torque as klx678 suggested and managed to get the torque up to around 80 inches pound, I went lower at 50-60 before and had the same issue. Haven’t applied the loctite until I can figure out what the issue is.

Clutch won’t work after re-assembly - XSR900/MT09/FZ09
 

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Hi,
one thing that came to mind for me is the arm that your clutch cable attaches to. It looks like it has moved somehow on its splines, it is too loose not under enough tension before you start.
Look at this video about 4 and a half minutes in, the arm is much further back and under much more tension. Maybe have a look there?
Also I have to say, you should throw that torque wrench thing you are using as far away as possible. Sorry.
Edit. The owner of the YouTube clip won't let it be shared but if you search xsr900 clutch adjustment you will hopefully see what I mean.
 

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The only thing I noticed when comparing it to another youtube video (on an MT-09) is that the clutch pull rod seems to protude more than on your bike. Here's the video, take a look at time 5.35 or 5.39


I took a screen grab from that video:
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...but I don't know if the 900 clutch has been modified over the years.
 

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The only thing I noticed when comparing it to another youtube video (on an MT-09) is that the clutch pull rod seems to protude more than on your bike. Here's the video, take a look at time 5.35 or 5.39


I took a screen grab from that video:
View attachment 28076

...but I don't know if the 900 clutch has been modified over the years.
...with further viewing it looks like a different clutch
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think it’s the same clutch. I believe you cracked the code, the rod does look shorter on mine I believe the bearing is in the wrong place. Going to take a look in a few will report back.
Checked the schematics and confirm the rod is in the right place…seems like the issue is the rod not connecting to the spline properly…not sure how to trouble shoot this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi,
one thing that came to mind for me is the arm that your clutch cable attaches to. It looks like it has moved somehow on its splines, it is too loose not under enough tension before you start.
Look at this video about 4 and a half minutes in, the arm is much further back and under much more tension. Maybe have a look there?
Also I have to say, you should throw that torque wrench thing you are using as far away as possible. Sorry.
Edit. The owner of the YouTube clip won't let it be shared but if you search xsr900 clutch adjustment you will hopefully see what I mean.
Could you share the clip link/title again? I can’t find it under xsr900 clutch. I was able to use the link you had posted before
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Think I’ve got it to work. It was ultimately the positioning of the clutch arm I believe as the clutch cable didn’t have enough tension to pull the clutch free. I mistakenly thought the positioning of the arm needed to be aligned with the arrow and dot solely through the tension of the arm spring whereas it actually needed to be completely taut with the cable fighting against the pull of the spring on the rod to meet the dot with the arrow.

Thanks everyone, if there’s any further issues I’ll give an update.
 
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