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Chain slack - whats normal

12431 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  KLX678
I have 400kms on my bike and decided to measure the chain slack as described in the owners? manual. It seems with no downward pressure, my chain is at 56mm. With some weight/downward pressure, it gets to near 65mm. I wasn't sure whether to measure from the end of the rubber ridge but measure from the base rubber to mid link. Or measure from the very end and put the tape on metal swing arm part. Above measurements are from the end of main ridge to mid link (last photo is from metal part).

To me this seems chain has too much slack. I have attached some photos to show what I mean. Next step is to either adjust myself or ask the dealer.

Any expert opinions?

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Push down with 1 finger in the middle of the chain. This will apply roughly the correct pressure. Then measure from bottom of swing arm to the top of the chain link. Its not an exacting science but will give you a good indication.
Thanks. I'll measure it again tonight and post a photo. I'm new to bikes, making me a little unsure of what is normal and acceptable.
Owner's manual says to measure to middle of the link. So it goes again. With no downward pressure, link measurement is about 55mm. With a single finger pressure of about 1.5 kgs (calibrated on kitchen scale), I see the measurement of 63/65mm. Factory specs call for upper limit of slack with 1.5 kg pressure of 56mm (58mm being the very upper limit). So it does seem like its too slack.

In the interest of learning new skills, should I adjust it myself. Or in the interest of safety and warranty, have the dealer adjust it?

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Sure you can do-it-yourself, but if you're not sure , take it to a dealer.

There are videos on Youtube showing chain adjustment. Search for 'MT-07 chain adjustment', its the same procedure as the XSR700. Also read the comments for additional tips.

Have you got a stand? Because it will be easier to adjust the chain with the rear wheel off the ground and you can check the chain at several places by rotating the wheel. Note, because chains can wear unevenly a chain should be adjusted at the tightest point.

Brian
I've got a stand coming today. I am confident working on cars and Jeeps, I've never messed around with a bike before. Videos and instructions in the manual seem fairly straightforward. I have the tools, including torque wrench.
Stopped by at the dealer for second opinion, yes it was sloppy and streched. They fixed it for free in 15 minutes. Without even booking it in.
Stopped by at the dealer for second opinion, yes it was sloppy and streched. They fixed it for free in 15 minutes. Without even booking it in.
I noticed same with my 2021 XSR700. I had driven it about 500 km, and saw that the chain is really loose. I think the factory chains are not pre-stretched (perhaps different year models come with different chains), so it is normal for them to stretch after 100 km or so. I also got it tightened, and went to buy 27mm socket and a breaker bar.
The chain does not stretch, it is hardened steel and will not stretch. The pins in the links seat in initially, that is the initial slack. From there it is the wear in the pins that results in the slack. The steel does not stretch. It is just a term that came about, incorrectly, to "explain" the slack in the chain.

By the way, better to run a bit loose than too tight. When the suspension compresses the arc of the swing arm is such that the chain will become tighter. Too tight and you risk damaging the hub, the swing arm, or the counter shaft bearings and seals and it will accelerate the wear of the chain pulling the pins tight against the inside of the link, steel to steel, squeezing out any lube between them. The chain will not come off unless something pushes it hard enough to come off. Just look at the chain line of about any off road bike and you'll see some really loose chains.

By the way replace the OEM nut with a new nyloc nut, the ones Yamaha uses can stick and cause problems. There has been some threads here and in the FZ/MT07 forums.
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The chain does not stretch
We all know this. But that is just the established term here in normal speak. Even chain manufacturers use that. It looks like many chains have the initial wear greater than what happens after it (as you explained). I think stretch is better term here than wear. Rusty chains have different kind of wear. In Finnish we never talk about stretch, we just say that chain is loose.
You'd be surprised how many people don't realize that when they are new to riding. After selling bikes for about 22 years been there seen that. So suffice it to say not everyone knows so it's worth saying it.

Most friends we would interchange the words worn and stretched, worn because that's what it is - wear on the parts.

FWIW I usually will compress the rear suspension until the axle is in line with the swing arm axle and countershaft, the tightest point, then adjust the chain for about 1 inch (25mm) slack, then release it and see what is there. I've run into two cases where the information in the manuals has the chain too tight.
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