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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please see reference Idle video from today once I got home: (6) Xsr 700 lumpy engine idle and cut out - YouTube

So,
Today I installed the Givi s110 & s111 wiring looms for usb charging points inside my tank bag. I opted to use a relay, which took the live from the tail light circuit, so when the ignition is off, the charger doesn't drain the battery.
I put an inline fuse (5amp fuse, the givi draws 3amp) from both lives going into the relay, one from the tail light and one direct to the battery. So there's 2 points of cut off if anything was to go wrong. See wiring diagram photo.
26186


After installation: Ignition off no power to usb, Ignition on and the usb ports work. Perfect.

So I headed out on the bike (not using new usb) and about 15 mins into my steady poodle around the town, my bike became really lumpy, and stalled at a roundabout. Looked down and the Check engine light was on.

I pushed it over to the side of the road, tried to start the engine and as the revs dropped back down to idle the bike just stalled. It done this a few times.
So, I took the seat off and checked all my new connections and neither of the new 5amp fuses were blown. The only way I could get the bike to run (albeit lumpy) was to take the new fuses out 🤷‍♂️. I managed to get home without it stalling, done the usual tests - Check alternator is working with multi meter, Check all fuses under the seat - check engine oil, brake fluid, water levels - check new charger with new fuses (that still worked 😑).

I also have front and rear Bullet cameras installed to the bike (Fitted by local Bike shop)

It could be a pure coincidence that it happened today, after adding the charger mod. Maybe both the cameras and charger are drawing too much power? (Givi usb draws 3amp, and cameras draw 1.5A. both on separate fuses)
But has anyone else had the same issues with lumpy idle and stalling.
I have the Yamaha ODB2 converter on order, so once that comes I should be able to see what the fault code is.

Any help would be great though!

Pretty long winded, but hopefully that gave you all the info I can remember.

If you made it this far.... Thank you 😇
Dan
 

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Do you lights stay on after or are they off or if you can check the battery first. Otherwise a loose connection or blown fuse. Start there anyway
 

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Trouble shooting #1, suspect that what you did last before the problem started. Eliminate the change. You might have a bad relay or something is causing an open to the hot side of the ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do you lights stay on after or are they off or if you can check the battery first. Otherwise a loose connection or blown fuse. Start there anyway
The lights turn off. I will write a reply below after todays findings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Trouble shooting #1, suspect that what you did last before the problem started. Eliminate the change. You might have a bad relay or something is causing an open to the hot side of the ignition.
Yeah i removed both fuses and all connections to the battery, please see post below for latest findings
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So, today I found the fault code : P0108 Stored, Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit High.

I spoke to a tech savvy friend and he said it was the MAP sensor, toldme where it was and to check the breather pipe for damage and check the electrical connection. So, I removed the whole tank to gain access to it, cleaned the connections and made sure the pipe wasn't blocked.
After clearing the code with the ODB2 reader, the bike still runs very lumpy and cuts out the same as yesterdays video, but doesn't throw up the fault code this time round....

Due to Brexit :rolleyes:, there's no new MAP sensors here so would have to be bought from abroad. (America/Italy) And at £140 ($197) + £50 postage... I don't fancy buying one and then it's not the sensor that's the problem.

Ran live data (KOEO) *key on engine off), Here's the results:
26189
26190
26191
26192


Does anyone know what the problem might be after checking all the breather pipes and MAP sensor?

Thanks people!
 

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[..]
Due to Brexit :rolleyes:, there's no new MAP sensors here so would have to be bought from abroad. (America/Italy) And at £140 ($197) + £50 postage... I don't fancy buying one and then it's not the sensor that's the problem.
[..]
Yepp, great to see how the advantages of a Brexit are working already. It was always the best to act for your own. Together with others is always bad... :)

Anyhow, did you check New and Used motorcycle parts - Boonstra Parts ? Quite good number of parts available for reasonable prices. As I did not read your whole thread, are you sure that the MAP sensor is the weak part?
The funniest thing I ever read, was pinning the yellow brake light wire (brake light) of the the tail light. This causes some nice effects.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
are you sure that the MAP sensor is the weak part?
I have found a couple of used on eBay, considerably cheaper.
I’ve managed to find a friend that has a vacuum pump tester and I will check the sensor with the pump and a multimeter tomorrow.
The funniest thing I ever read, was pinning the yellow brake light wire (brake light) of the the tail light. This causes some nice effects.
Looks like I’ve chosen the wrong wire to use as a switch live 😬 another guy who works in a bike shop, seems to think that yellow wire is also on the same circuit as the ABS. 😖
 

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Hey! This sounds like a head scratcher. What did you pull voltage from to operate your relay? in your previous posts its a little vague, in the picture you say headlight, and another place is tail light. Where do the cameras pull power from? where are you grounding the 3a usb plugs?
The map sensor looks fine, its reading pretty normal pressure and temp, and the voltages are not too high. whats your battery voltage at? how much current is your alternator putting out at idle?

this is a link to a yamaha MAP sensor diag procedure:

Here is an anrticle about creating your own power distribution block.
 
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