Great write up and tutorial James.
Akrapovic Duel Exhaust Baffle Removal
After scrolling through countless threads and sites and nobody really showing a good in depth picture by picture tutorial on how to remove the baffles from an Akrapovic exhaust I though I'd give it a go as I'd just fitted the exhaust myself.
IF YOU ARE UNSURE AS TO HOW THE BIKE WILL SOUND WITH THE BAFFLES REMOVED AND DON'T WANT TO POTENTIALLY DAMAGE YOUR NEW EXHAUST TO FIND OUT, COMPLETE THE FIRST THREE STEPS AND TURN YOUR ENGINE ON. THIS IS THE TONE AND VOLUME YOUR BIKE WILL RUN AT WITH THE BAFFLES REMOVED.
Difficulty:
Basic - Moderate
Duration:
20-30mins
Tools needed:
Spanners
Hex keys
Drill + Metal drill bits
Towel
Hammer
Step 1: Remove the jubilee clip, tension spring and passenger foot peg bolt to remove the cans from the bike.
Step 2: Separate the cans by removing the two tension springs and two bolts holding them together. You should now have each can separate.
Step 3: remove the rubber plug (seen in the 1st picture) to revile where the baffle is connect to the can via a small weld (seen in the 2nd picture).
Step 4: drill through the weld with a metal drill piece. I started with a pilot hole of 2.5mm eventually working my way up to 6.5mm. At this point it looked like I had drilled through most of the weld (as seen in the 3rd picture).
Step 5: With the weld drilled out now place the can upside down with the rear of the can facing the floor between your legs. I wrapped it in a towel as not to mark the surface. Use the rubber handle of your hammer to hammer on the end of the baffle (as seen in the 4th picture).
Step 6: Eventually the baffle with give way and fall out the end (as seen in the 5th picture). If it doesn't seam to give then you may need to drill out the weld with a larger diameter drill bit.
Step 7: Reverse steps 1-3 to fit the exhaust back on the bike.
After thoughts: I am going to more than likely leave my baffles in for the most part as I feel removing the baffles is too loud for every day use. So with the 6.5mm hole now in my baffle and can I will use a small nut and bolt to reattach them. This way I have the ability to take them in and out as I please.
IF YOU ARE UNSURE AS TO HOW THE BIKE WILL SOUND WITH THE BAFFLES REMOVED AND DON'T WANT TO POTENTIALLY DAMAGE YOUR NEW EXHAUST TO FIND OUT, COMPLETE THE FIRST THREE STEPS AND TURN YOUR ENGINE ON. THIS IS THE TONE AND VOLUME YOUR BIKE WILL RUN AT WITH THE BAFFLES REMOVED.
Difficulty:
Basic - Moderate
Duration:
20-30mins
Tools needed:
Spanners
Hex keys
Drill + Metal drill bits
Towel
Hammer
Step 1: Remove the jubilee clip, tension spring and passenger foot peg bolt to remove the cans from the bike.
Step 2: Separate the cans by removing the two tension springs and two bolts holding them together. You should now have each can separate.
Step 3: remove the rubber plug (seen in the 1st picture) to revile where the baffle is connect to the can via a small weld (seen in the 2nd picture).
Step 4: drill through the weld with a metal drill piece. I started with a pilot hole of 2.5mm eventually working my way up to 6.5mm. At this point it looked like I had drilled through most of the weld (as seen in the 3rd picture).
Step 5: With the weld drilled out now place the can upside down with the rear of the can facing the floor between your legs. I wrapped it in a towel as not to mark the surface. Use the rubber handle of your hammer to hammer on the end of the baffle (as seen in the 4th picture).
Step 6: Eventually the baffle with give way and fall out the end (as seen in the 5th picture). If it doesn't seam to give then you may need to drill out the weld with a larger diameter drill bit.
Step 7: Reverse steps 1-3 to fit the exhaust back on the bike.
After thoughts: I am going to more than likely leave my baffles in for the most part as I feel removing the baffles is too loud for every day use. So with the 6.5mm hole now in my baffle and can I will use a small nut and bolt to reattach them. This way I have the ability to take them in and out as I please.
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I've never seen one in person but looking at the photos online can you not just remove the 3 screws holding the heat shield on. Then remove the tension spring and jubilee clip holding the can on. Then remove the rubber plug from the weap hole to reveal the spot weld?
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They have changed the design, my can is actually welded to the pipe. :-(
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Sorry to hear than Kenme that sucks.
Unfortuently with the shape of the baffle you wouldn't be able to get any purchase from the inside so I could only imagine the effort you would have to go to with a hammer and some mole grips on the inner pipe of the baffle.
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hi,
i managed to put them out, but it was really hard work. I also was affraid that i will damage them, but it went well. For one of them it took at least half an hour with raw violence.
I just modified the baffles for lowering the resistance and also to increase sound a little bit. For reinstalling the baffles i took them into the freezer for 30 minutes bevor beating them in.
I used 5mm screws and nuts to hold them in place after reinstalling.
I hope i don't get trouble with next TÜV Certification in 2020, otherwise i have to reinstall the stock-pipe. :wink2:
i managed to put them out, but it was really hard work. I also was affraid that i will damage them, but it went well. For one of them it took at least half an hour with raw violence.
I just modified the baffles for lowering the resistance and also to increase sound a little bit. For reinstalling the baffles i took them into the freezer for 30 minutes bevor beating them in.
I used 5mm screws and nuts to hold them in place after reinstalling.
I hope i don't get trouble with next TÜV Certification in 2020, otherwise i have to reinstall the stock-pipe. :wink2:
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Ok I see that it can to be done, but how do You do that, what do You mean by "hard work" ?
I dont want to damage baffles, what technique You apply, maybe You have some photos of doing that ?
I see pipe on pic as mine, how hard you have to hit and how you handle the exhaust ?
Pls Help
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